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If you heard a loud bang from the garage sometime in the last day or two and now the door won’t lift, or it lifts a few inches and stops, that’s almost always a broken spring. It happens more in cold snaps, when steel loses a bit of flex and an already-fatigued spring finally lets go.
A door that drops suddenly or feels like dead weight the moment the opener tries to lift it is not an opener problem, whatever the remote behaves like. It’s a spring problem, and it’s one that needs a trained hand, not a crowbar and a free afternoon.
Most residential garage doors run on either torsion springs mounted on a shaft above the door, or extension springs stretched along the horizontal tracks on either side. Torsion springs wind and unwind as the door moves, storing the energy that does the actual lifting. When one breaks, you’ll usually see a clean gap in the coil sitting above the door, or hear that bang as the two halves separate under tension.
Extension springs fail differently. They stretch and snap, and without restraint cables in place they can send a broken end flying across the garage, which is why older setups without safety cables are a real hazard on their own, independent of the spring failure itself.
The repair itself means replacing the spring (or the matched pair, if your door runs two torsion springs, which it should if it’s over about 7 feet wide) with one rated for the correct weight and cycle life, re-tensioning it to balance the door, and checking that the cable drums, bearings and center bracket came through the failure undamaged. A broken spring under tension is dangerous to work on. This is not a job to attempt yourself, and we won’t walk you through doing it over the phone. It’s a straightforward repair for someone who does it daily, and a genuinely dangerous one for someone who doesn’t.
A spring replacement call is also a chance to check the rest of the system, since everything downstream of the spring works harder when the spring is wrong.
We disconnect the opener and check whether the door, lifted by hand, holds its position at roughly waist height and moves smoothly on its own weight. A door that slams down or rockets up once the opener is out of the equation is out of balance, and that’s the spring tension talking, not the track or the rollers.
We confirm whether you’ve got torsion or extension springs, measure the wire diameter and coil length, and match the replacement to your door’s actual weight rather than whatever was fitted last time. Springs are rated in cycles – roughly how many times they’ll open and close before fatigue takes them – and a higher-cycle spring on a door that gets used several times a day pays for itself in fewer callouts.
The cables that run from the bottom brackets up to the drums take the load the spring generates. A sudden spring failure can fray a cable or knock a drum out of alignment, and running the door on a damaged cable is how a second failure happens a few weeks later. We check both before we call the job finished.
We check the tracks are straight and properly spaced, reset the opener’s travel limits and force settings now that the door is correctly balanced again, and run the safety reversal test – the door should stop and reverse the instant it meets resistance on the way down. An opener fighting an unbalanced door for weeks will often need its force cranked up just to close, which is exactly the setting that should never be cranked up.
Uxbridge has a wide spread of housing stock, from older farmhouses and mill-era homes near the Blackstone River to newer colonials and capes further out from the center. On the older properties we still see detached single-car garages and barns converted to garage use, sometimes with wood doors that have been patched and repainted for decades rather than replaced – those doors carry weight differently than a standard steel sectional and need springs matched to that weight, not a generic size off a shelf.
The newer construction around town tends to run attached two-car garages with standard 16-foot double doors or paired 8 or 9-foot singles, almost all on torsion springs mounted above the opening. Those doors are more uniform to size and service, but they still see enough daily use – especially on homes with a long commute into the Milford or Worcester job markets – that spring wear shows up on a fairly predictable schedule.
Whichever type of door you’ve got, the fix is the same in principle: the right spring, correctly tensioned, with everything it depends on checked at the same time.
Spring repair pricing runs from about {PRICE_LOW} to {PRICE_HIGH}, and where you land in that range depends on whether it’s a single torsion spring or a matched pair, the spring’s cycle rating and wire gauge, and whether the cables, drums or rollers need attention at the same time. A door with one broken spring on a two-spring system should generally get both replaced together, since the second is usually close behind on fatigue – we’ll tell you honestly if that’s the case rather than replacing parts that don’t need it.
No. A torsion spring holds enough stored energy to cause serious injury if it releases unexpectedly, and the tools and technique for winding and unwinding it safely take real training to use correctly. This is one repair we won't talk you through over the phone.
Most springs fail from ordinary fatigue after thousands of open-close cycles, so there's often no warning beyond a bit more noise in the weeks before. Temperature swings, especially a hard cold snap, can also push an already-worn spring past its limit.
If your door runs two torsion springs and one has broken, we'll generally recommend replacing both, since they wear at a similar rate and the second is usually close behind. We'll check the second spring's condition and explain what we find rather than assume.
You can usually lift it manually for a short time to get a car out, but expect it to feel heavy and awkward, since the spring that normally carries most of the weight is no longer doing its job. Don't force it, and don't run the opener against it.
Once a technician is on site with the correct springs, replacement and rebalancing is typically finished within a couple of hours, including resetting the opener's limits and running a safety reversal check.
Uxbridge is about 13 miles from our base in Bellingham, a straightforward run down Route 16. We don’t quote a guaranteed arrival window here, but we do prioritize calls where a door is stuck shut or stuck open, since that usually means a trapped car or a house that can’t be secured.
Not sure yet whether it’s the spring or something else? Describe what happened – the bang, the stuck position, how old the door is – and we’ll give you a straight answer and a cost estimate before anyone comes out.
If your spring has gone, don’t run the opener trying to force it – that strains the motor and the gears for no benefit, since the spring is doing the lifting, not the opener. Call us, tell us what you heard and what the door is doing, and we’ll get a technician out with the right springs on the truck.